Your Doors Won't Close? Don't Blame the Door — Blame Florida's Humidity

You know this sound: the door that latched perfectly in spring now scrapes the frame every time you close it. It's not broken. It's Florida.

Why it happens

Wood doors soak up moisture from the air and swell — especially bathroom and exterior doors. Our wet season does this to almost every house in Broward. It's normal, not a defect, and it's reversible.

Check this yourself first (free, 2 minutes)

1. Open and close the door slowly — watch WHERE it rubs: top, bottom, or side?
2. Look for shiny worn spots or fresh paint rubbed off the edge — that's your rub point.
3. Tighten the hinge screws. Loose hinges make the door sag — often a 30-second fix with a screwdriver.

When it's a DIY fix

• Rubbing in one spot? Mark it with a pencil, sand or plane it down a little, touch up the paint. Done.
• Sagging on loose hinges? Longer screws reaching the stud behind the frame usually fix it instantly.

When it's a handyman job

• The door rubs in three places and you don't own a planer.
• The door won't latch at all and the strike plate needs moving.
• The frame itself is warped, or the door swelled so much it started to split.
• You tried it yourself and it got worse — I fix those too, no judgment. 😄

Cost logic (honest)

Most sticking-door fixes are a one-visit job. My rates: $80 for the first hour, $60 for each hour after, $80 minimum per visit. A door adjustment usually fits inside that first hour — and while I'm there, I can look at the other door that "also does that thing."

One Florida tip

Don't force a swollen door shut — you'll crack the frame, and a frame repair costs more than an adjustment ever will.

Want it fixed before the holiday guests arrive? Send me a photo of the door edge. I'll tell you what it'll cost and when I can be there.